An Asheville Main Street Walkabout

by Kate Nixon

 

I’ve been using the phrase “I remember when…” a little too often these days.

For example, “I remember the summer nights when I walked alongside the river by Salvage Station with my sister, talking about life” or “I remember those crisp fall evenings when I’d meet friends for a glass of wine at Bottle Riot back in 2022, when we thought we had finally made it through the slump of Covid-19. The idea of prosperity was in view.” For those of you readers who don’t know the city of Asheville, both locations are located in the River Arts District just over a mile away from each other and both were forever changed by Tropical Storm Helene. Bottle Riot, a hip and artsy lounge location providing wines local and international in a row of artsy businesses, was forced to close in November and held a “One Last Riot” before Thanksgiving. Salvage Station, once a vibrant live music venue next to the river, is still large piles of rubble being scooped up by construction crews.

I was reminded of those memories as I drove through the River Arts District on the way to work earlier this week. It wasn’t my typical route, but detours around the state have brought more trucks, vans, 16-wheelers and holiday travelers to our highways than ever and the GPS told me driving Riverside was the quickest way. And just like that, I drove past the Riverside Drive wreckage: the wide sun-dappled powerful river splitting a seemingly post-apocalyptic landscape completed with trash strewn barren trees and miles of rubble and tree debris with construction crews doing their best to contain and remove. While I drove quickly and safely through Riverside Drive and past the district, I couldn’t help but feel my chest tighten as I remembered those good ol’ days. Nothing sacred can stay, I guess.

And then a thought… “Rather than focus on the wreckage, take a second to remember what is still standing.” And I knew where to go.

 

 

In talking with neighbors and friends, we are of split minds of how to tell people what it’s been like seeing our city these past three months. Yes, Asheville has been dealt a horrendous blow that has made for a miserable 4th quarter for Asheville’s local businesses. Among them artists and craftspeople, some of whom have pivoted to helping others. But in walking downtown Asheville, if it weren’t for the signs scattered around advocating love and recovery, you would not have known that Asheville took a beat down.

It is important to tell the story of Asheville surviving and what happened will go in our history books. But we don’t want to make it sound like the entire city is ruined. Because it isn’t.

Here is what I wish people would understand about Asheville after the storm: it was horrible, but it was inconsistent. The view of the mountains shows patches missing from the tree-blanketed landscape, but there’s lots of Asheville that remains the same. The news footage during the Fall season was dire because the cameras looked in Biltmore Village, The River Arts District, areas of Asheville lower in elevation got hit horribly. But as soon as the trees and rubble were removed, it was safe to drive, and utilities were restored to buildings, Asheville opened again.

 

 

I parked in the garage – free at the time – and began my walk. It was comforting seeing people in restaurants again. A favorite restaurant that made fresh soup dumplings on main street had happy customers seated by the windows, happily chattering and slurping. Mast General Store, a large two level store filled with local and outdoorsy fare, had groups of visitors and locals shopping for Christmas. A creative studio offering those with a creative streak the chance to hand paint ready made ceramic items was hosting a painting party of kids and mothers creating a cozy chaos as I entered to pick up a present I had painted last week. I couldn’t tell if they were Asheville natives or from out of town, but much like coming out of the Covid crisis, I smiled because it was simply nice to see a group of happy folks again.

Ducking into the Asheville Art Museum to check up on the staff and hearing about their upcoming exhibition “Asheville Strong: Celebrating Art and Community After Hurricane Helene” (starting February 13th) proved an inspiring visit. Those coming in February will have their chance to see that exhibition as well as a local lecture on Asheville Architects.

I walked past a parked red double decker bus serving coffee, tea and desserts, the local fine arts theatre showing two independent films, an art gallery with pottery displayed amidst holiday greenery and a “We Are Open” sign featuring artwork of a black bear sitting amongst main street, the popular Wicked Weed brewing pub hosting a holiday work party, and countless window displays scattered with signs displaying their winter hours. I had one more drop off before I left for work and for a second, I was concerned that the streets would be too quiet.

 

 

Luckily, a group of tourists were buying from local artists and entrepreneurs placed in their Grove Arcade booths. Some folks clustered together, searching for a cup of coffee or a late morning pastry. A few folks spoke about where to find a good Christmas tree since Helene knocked out a few local tree farms.

It’s safe to say that many Asheville families bought stocking stuffers and gifts from Asheville’s finest and determined, but it’s important that these businesses continue to be supported past Christmas.

Today, I think about the local artists here in Asheville and in the outskirts of Asheville like Black Mountain, Swannanoa, Lake Lure, Fairview and Fletcher, Boone and other communities who continue their story of survival in addition to building their community of supporters. No doubt you’ll see a few of them in February at the Grove Park Inn.

Speaking of which, the local roads to get to the Grove Park Inn are clear, so in February expect a few leftover piles of tree debris here and there. Your drive should be fine.

We are Asheville Strong, but Asheville’s always been built on tourism and hospitality. I hope to see you in February, where we can celebrate resilience in both the movement and here in Asheville.

 

 

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